Buyers Guide to Vintages February 21st Release

The Emerging Hemisphere

by David Lawrason with notes from Sara d’Amato, Michael Godel and Megha Jandhyala

Vintages features the Southern Hemisphere in this release. To broach such an expansive subject with a handful of wines — albeit well-chosen — somehow signals the lack of regard that the much larger Northern Hemisphere-dominated wine world holds for the south. And how shallow our notions of the wines and their countries remain.

Here are the common perceptions I would bet are widely held in the Canadian marketplace. Australia equals shiraz, New Zealand sauvignon blanc, Chile cabernet sauvignon, Argentina malbec, Uruguay tannat. (Uruguay makes wine?) Only South Africa seems to have been spared the varietal pigeon-holing, unless you want to include “value” as a calling card, with chenin blanc and syrah as up-and-comers. The respective countries all built these stereotypes, but time is marching on and diversifying the wine landscape of the Southern Hemisphere.

I was reminded of this last week at a trade tasting featuring the wines of the state of Victoria in Australia (Melbourne is the capital). During the seminar, Master of Wine Mark Davidson, who markets Aussie wines in North America, told us how often he encounters the bias/perception that Australia is just shiraz. And that the perception tends to be negative, whereas Aussie shiraz can achieve stunning heights and prices, which I encountered in January during a private student reunion tasting featuring back vintages of Penfolds Grange and Henschke’s Hill of Grace. But even in far less expensive sphere’s, Aussie shiraz is a bona fide, world-class style. Yet Davidson, who spent his early career as a Toronto sommelier, recounted a recent experience in the U.S. where only 30 seats in a 100-seat venue at a major Aussie shiraz tasting were filled.

The Toronto seminar on the wines of Victoria, was well attended, but not packed. The sommeliers, social media influencers and very few traditional scribes (who still write whole articles with ink-dipped quills) were drawn by this subject because Victoria is perhaps the coolest, thus the “coolest,” of major Aussie regions. Its southern zones are within hailing distance of the cold Southern Ocean, and interior regions are elevation-cooled by the Australian Alps. It makes most of the country’s outstanding pinot noirs and chardonnays. And yes, lots of shiraz as well, if with a leaner, more peppery, mineral ambiance.

It gets even more interesting. Did you know that there are 21 wine appellations in Victoria alone, with over 600 wineries? In Australia there are almost 120 GIs, or Geographical Indicators (appellations). In much smaller New Zealand there are 12 major regions but within each there are subdivisions that may or may not show up on labels. About 10 years ago I wrote a long piece that identified over 20 sub-zones for NZ pinot noir alone. Chile has 18 regional appellations, with many smaller sub-zones locally identified. Argentina has over 100 official appellations. South Africa has a very complex appellation system that includes named “wards” but there are roughly 60 such locations that might be considered and named as wine regions. Uruguay has 16! (Yes, Uruguay does make wine)

So, the Southern Hemisphere is not some homogenous mass. One can throw up one’s hands and say enough already, I will just drink what I like and know from the north. Or one can take the dive, knowing that every bottle from a specifically identified place will produce a wine with difference. Which Europe has writ as a fine art for a much longer time, and which the Southern Hemisphere is offering at much lower prices. I have had the rare and great fortune to have crossed the equator about 20 times. And I suggest that the “emerging” hemisphere is very much worth getting to know, and ultimately as interesting and quality competent as the north.

As mentioned, Vintages has done a good job selecting for this release (we have not tasted them all). But we have also recommended other very noteworthy Northern Hemisphere wines, including from Ontario’s backyard which put on quite a show — especially the half dozen whites highlighted below.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages February 21: Whites

Bortoluzzi Pinot Grigio 2024, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
$22.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
David Lawrason – More complex and interesting than many Italian grigios, showing some peach colour from skin contact, and a rich, creamy palate. The nose is soft and fruity with apricot, florals and a sweet hay notion. It is medium bodied, fresh, delicate and sweet-edged.
Sara d’Amato – This grigio leans “gris” in spirit — a little richer, a little rounder, yet with just 3 g/L of sugar, it is barely off-dry. Thoughtfully made, delicately floral, and more compelling than you’d expect.
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And that it is wrap for this edition. We return in two weeks with a report on the March 7 release.

Use these quick links for access to all of our February 21st Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 60 days prior.

Lawrason’s Take – February 21st
Michael’s Mix – February 21st
Sara’s Selections – February 21st
Megha’s Picks – February 21st

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